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Whitefella Australian learning how to be gwai lo (鬼佬) in Hong Kong

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

STOP PRESS: No bad coffee in Hong Kong!

A few posts ago, I was saying that I hadn't managed to find bad coffee in Hong Kong, yet. In the interests of research I was feeling brave enough today to try deliberately to find bad coffee. Where would I find bad coffee? I'm never going to darken the doors of Starbucks, I'm afraid to say. I am still running an informal boycott after they misguidedly opened a branch in Lygon St in Melbourne, the  birthplace of espresso coffee in Australia, mere years after Antonio Gaggia invented the espresso machine (thanks to Australia's nascent Italian community in the 1950s) Readers in Melbourne may want to check out this website if they're looking for somewhere new to try. I'd noticed a cafe in Tai Po called Blue Mountain cafe whose menus were all in Cantonese, and which seemed a very local place. To put this in context for those who don't know Hong Kong, Tai Po is a town way out in the New Territories, far from the cosmopolitan haunts of Hong Kong island. I thought it was therefore a likely place, if there was going to be one, not to have learnt the finer points of coffee making.
A perfect double espresso
The coffeegeeks among you will recognise the name 'Blue Mountain' because it is the name of one of the most famous coffees in the world, namely Jamaican Blue Mountain (and incidentally, the only written English in the whole place). I thought this meant at least that they would serve coffee, so that I wouldn't look like a total idiot trying to order coffee (咖啡) from a menu that didn't even contain it! So I went and tried out my best Cantonese - the staff seemed to know a little English, and asked, 'double or single'. I went for a double (in for a penny, in for a pound, as the English would say), and this is the result. Wow! Look at that great crema. It even came with a little jug of milk on the side, in case I wanted to turn it into a macchiato. Some days I might want this, but today I did not. So hats off to the barista guy at the Blue Mountain cafe in Tai Po. He deserves more business with coffees like this.
It turns out that the only bad coffee in Hong Kong so far has been at home! Being a true coffee nerd, the only thing I really HAD to bring was my trusty Rancilio Silvia, and the Nemox grinder. These survived the journey via UPS (though the grinder base got a little bent), and were swiftly installed on the benchtop in our kitchen. As you will know, the Silvia is a very reliable domestic machine, so I was confident I would at least be able to make good coffee at home. However so far, and it has only been a month, I have not been able to source good espresso beans reliably at all. At first I was buying supermarket beans, because that was the only place I knew how to shop at, and of course these never tell you when they have been roasted, and often have expiry dates up to a year away. Those who know these things say that coffee is at its best within two weeks of being roasted, and my experience of these last few weeks makes me believe that the 'stale beans=bad espresso' meme is true. I was spoilt in Melbourne, knowing many good places to pick up great freshly roasted coffee.
Here in Hong Kong I have only found one place so far, Zambra in Wan Chai, that roasts its own coffee locally. I have heard rumours of many others, but have yet to track them down. Now Wan Chai is five changes of public transport from where I live in Tai Po, which is not the most convenient place to restock my coffee supplies, to say the least. The coffee I did buy from them has been the best so far, but I was loathe to buy more than a couple of hundred grams without trying it first, and that quickly ran out. I know there are places that mail order, but I am worried that this will involve the package being delivered, not fitting in the mail box, and then me having to go through the whole palaver of either going to the Post Office in Tai Po (lovely though it is, it is another bus trip), or waiting in deliberately for a not-very-prompt Hong Kong Post redelivery. So I'd rather be able to buy them directly from a retail outlet, preferably one closer than the Island.
So if you're reading this and you're a local, can you help? Where can I find great coffee beans?

3 comments:

  1. Yaz - You know there is a much quicker way to get to Wanchai from Tai Po. The 307 bus leaves Tai Po bus centre and travels up Kwong Fuk Road before heading off to the eastern harbour tunel (via Tates Cairn Tunnel). On a quick day (off peak) I have made the journey from Kwong Fuk Tsuen to Fleming Rod in Wanchai in 25 minutes - usually the journey time is around 35 - 40 mins, but no need for multiple changes.

    Maybe your coffee supplies are closer than you think?

    Regards
    Phil

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  2. oh, and I should mention that you can catch the same bus back to Tai Po at the bus stops in front of Immigration Tower (east bound side of course) - at the bottom of the walkway that crosses Gloucester Road.

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  3. Thanks, Phil. Yes, I've discovered the 307 (and the 271) and I'm a definite convert, though I think the 25 minute time must have been some sort of record!
    Still haven't found any coffee roasters on Kowloon-side who can tell me a definite date that the coffee was roasted. Kitamura coffee is by far the best in that regard, you can buy coffee that has been roasted that day - mmmm!

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